The Post-Storm Checklist: What to Photograph, What to Trim, What to Leave

When the wind finally stops, resist the urge to start hacking. The first 30–60 minutes after a storm should be about safety and documentation—not big cuts. The right photos, a few quick “make-safe” moves, and a call to the right pro can be the difference between an easy claim and weeks of back-and-forth.

Need urgent help? Book Emergency Tree Service. Not sure what’s safe to keep vs. remove? Schedule a Tree Health Assessment and we’ll map your options on site.

0) Safety first (do this before anything else)

• Assume lines are live. If anything is tangled in power or the service drop to your house, keep back and call the utility/911. Don’t touch fences or wet ground near lines.

• Look for hidden tension. A limb pinned on the roof or across a fence can spring when cut. If you’re not 100% sure how it’s loaded, don’t cut it.

• Scan the base of big trees. Fresh soil heave, a new lean, or a crack at the trunk/union = high risk. That’s pro territory.

• Watch overhead. “Hangers” tucked in the canopy and cracked limbs over driveways are common after squall lines.

If any of the above is present, stop at documentation and call Emergency Tree Service.

1) Photograph everything (for claims + HOA/ARC)

Think like an adjuster: clear angles that prove the damage and the cause. Use your phone’s wide and 1×/2× zoom. Don’t risk the roof for photos.

Required shots (7-angle set):

1. Front elevation (wide) – house and roof edges visible.

2. Damage close-up – shingle puncture, gutter tear, shattered screen panel, dented hood, fence crush.

3. Source of damage – limb that caused it, still in place if safe.

4. Context wide – show limb + structure together (one frame).

5. Interior – ceiling stain, attic wet insulation (if safe).

6. Ground debris – big limbs, shingles in yard, broken tiles.

7. Date/time – screenshot your phone clock or weather app and include it in the album.

Label files: 1-Front-Wide.jpg, 2-Roof-Valley-Dent.jpg, etc. This makes re-inspection painless.

2) Quick “make-safe” moves most homeowners can do

These are low-risk actions that don’t destroy evidence for the claim:

• Tarp the obvious (if reachable from a ladder and you’re comfortable): cover a small roof puncture or broken skylight with a weighted tarp; photograph the hole first.

• Collect small debris from drive/walks so you can move around safely. Keep larger limbs in place until photographed.

• Clear gutters/valleys from the ground using an extendable tool if visible clogs are causing overflow—photograph the clog before clearing.

• Shut off irrigation and move vehicles out from under stressed branches.

If you feel even slightly over your head, stop and call Emergency Tree Service. We document as we go.

3) What to leave for a pro (don’t cut these)

• Large limbs on the roof (weight + tension).

• Limb-on-limb binds (twisted, under load).

• Cracked unions or codominant splits—often look fine until they fail.

• Hangers above walkways/drive.

• Anything near wires or the service mast.

• Palms with a damaged spear leaf (the new emerging frond). Cutting randomly can kill the palm—let us evaluate.

We’ll perform ANSI A300 reduction cuts (not topping), lower the pieces safely, and photo-document every step for your file.

4) The homeowner’s 10-minute tree triage (green/yellow/red)

Use this to prioritize calls. You don’t need to be an arborist—just observe.

GREEN – Safe to wait a few days

• Scattered small deadwood on the lawn.

• Cosmetic shrub damage.

• Minor canopy thinning that isn’t over structures.

YELLOW – Call soon

• Limbs over roof, pool cage, or neighbor’s fence (even if not touching).

• Fresh hangers you can see from the ground.

• Palm with broken brown fronds or heavy seed stalks scraping the screen.

• New drainage into a roof valley from leaf dams.

RED – Call now (Emergency Tree Service)

• Any contact with power/service lines.

• Cracked unions, fresh leans, or soil heave at the trunk.

• Limb through the roof or through a screen enclosure.

• Spear leaf torn or missing on palms (possible terminal bud damage).

5) What to trim after documentation (and how to do it right)

If your situation is GREEN and you’re handy, here’s the safe scope for DIY:

• Small broken branches (arm-thickness or less) within reach from the ground or a short step ladder.

• Make clean cuts back to a lateral or just outside the branch collar—no stubs, no flush cuts.

• Never “head back” big limbs (topping). That creates weak sprouts and future failures.

• Palms: remove brown fronds and fruit/flower stalks only; keep green fronds at/above the 9–3 position (no hurricane cuts).

Everything else? Put it on our list. We’ll restore 6–10 ft roof clearance, 18–24 in wall clearance, 7–8 ft walkway headroom, and stabilize structure with reduction cuts—all the inspector-friendly language you need in one visit.

6) Filing the claim (copy-paste starter you can use)

Subject: Storm Tree Damage — Photos + ANSI Pruning Plan

Hello,Attached are before/after photos of storm damage at addressaddressaddress, including the source limb and affected areas (roof valley, gutter, pool screen). Our contractor performed ANSI A300 pruning under Certified Arborist oversight to make the property safe (no topping, reduction cuts only) and prevent further damage.We request inspection/coverage for the documented damage. Additional details and invoices are attached.

Thank you.

We can also send a work summary that mirrors adjuster language, e.g., “Reduced end-weight 8–10′ over roof; removed hangers; restored 24″ wall clearance; palm care per 9–3 rule.”

7) The “don’t make it worse” list (common mistakes)

• Climbing on wet roofs for photos. Shoot from the ground or a window.

• Chainsawing binds you don’t understand; the wood can spring.

• Topping to “make it shorter.” You’ll fail the next inspection and invite decay.

• Hurricane-cutting palms. Weakens the tree when it needs strength most.

• Skipping documentation. Always shoot before and after angles that match.

8) After the chaos: schedule the real fix

A storm exposes problems that were already there—over-extended limbs, tight V-crotches, buried root flares, palms that need seasonal care. The most cost-effective move you can make is to put your trees on a 12–24 month structural plan so the next storm is routine, not a disaster.

• Start with a Tree Health Assessment. We’ll map defects, set reduction targets over the roof and walkways, and give you a calendar.

• Keep us on for seasonal trimming so end-weight stays off the house and palms don’t shred your screens next summer.

FAQs

Can you “make my tree shorter” so it’s safe next storm?

Yes—with reduction cuts to strong laterals (not topping). That shortens lever arms and keeps attachments strong.

What if a limb pierced the roof?

Photograph from inside/outside, tarp if safe, and call Emergency Tree Service. We’ll coordinate with your roofer.

What about county/HOA rules?

We work to ANSI A300 and provide the documentation HOAs and insurers expect. If permits or arborist letters are needed for removals, we handle that too.

Free resources

• ISA – “Storm-damaged trees: Do’s and Don’ts”

• UF/IFAS – “Restoring trees after a hurricane”

• Ready.gov – Storm safety & documentation basics