How to Tell If a Tree Is Dying (And What You Can Do About It)

If you’ve lived in Florida for any length of time, you know our trees can go from “gorgeous shade” to “uh-oh” fast. One week your live oak looks fine; the next week you’re noticing leaves browning at the tips, a limb hanging over the driveway, or mushrooms popping up around the base. We hear the same question all the time: “Is my tree dying—or just stressed?”

This guide walks you, step by step, through what to look for, what you can do right now, and when to bring in a pro. The goal isn’t to turn you into an arborist—it’s to help you make smart decisions that protect your home, your budget, and the trees you want to keep.

Why catching decline early matters (especially in Florida)

• Storm safety: Weak limbs and compromised trunks fail first in high winds. That’s not something to “wait and see” in hurricane country.

• Home protection: Roots and branches in the wrong places can create roof leaks, cracked patios, or fence damage.

• Insurance headaches: If an adjuster can tell a tree was clearly neglected, a storm-related claim may be denied for “preventable damage.”

• Tree recovery: Most issues are easier and cheaper to fix when you catch them early.

Quick story: A homeowner in Seffner asked us to look at a red maple “that felt off.” From the street it looked fine. Up close, we found a narrow trunk crack and bark peeling from an old mower wound. A targeted prune, a mulch ring, and one irrigation adjustment later—and the tree bounced back. A month later, a storm rolled through. That crack would’ve been the failure point.

A simple homeowner checklist: Is your tree in trouble?

You don’t need special tools—just a little patience and a slow walk around the tree. Start at the top and work your way down.

1) Canopy and leaves

• Thinning canopy (you can suddenly “see through” the tree)

• Out-of-season leaf drop or sections that stay bare

• Discoloration: browning tips, yellowing between veins, or entire branches turning dull

• Palms: a missing spear leaf (the new frond that emerges from the center) is a red flag; uniform yellowing low on the trunk is normal aging, but browning from the top down is not

2) Branches

• Deadwood that snaps clean and dry

• Crossing/rubbing limbs (wounds invite decay)

• Hangers—broken limbs suspended in the canopy after a storm

3) Trunk and bark

• Vertical cracks, seams, or splits

• Missing or peeling bark that exposes wood beneath

• Cankers (sunken, diseased patches)

• Conks—those shelf-like mushrooms growing from the trunk often indicate internal decay

4) Root flare and soil

• The root flare (where the trunk meets the ground) should be visible like the base of a wine glass. If it’s buried in mulch or soil, that’s a problem.

• Mushrooms or persistent soggy soil around the base

• Soil heaving on one side (can mean the tree shifted in wind)

• Surface roots that are suddenly higher or cracking nearby hardscape

5) Overall posture

• New lean (especially after rain or wind)

• S-shaped trunk or obvious heaving of the root plate

• Asymmetry—one side heavy, one side thin (often a sign of structural stress)

If you check several boxes above, it’s time to move from “watching” to acting.

The usual suspects: Why healthy Florida trees start to fail

Florida gives trees a mixed bag: heat, humidity, sandy soils, salt, and sudden soak-and-bake weather swings.

• Drought-then-downpour: Long dry spells followed by heavy rain can suffocate roots in compacted soil.

• Improper pruning or topping: “Topped” trees shoot weak, poorly attached sprouts that break in storms.

• Mulch volcanoes: Piling mulch against the trunk invites rot; keep it 2–4 inches deep and off the bark.

• Weed-whacker wounds: Repeated hits at the trunk open the door to decay.

• Construction impacts: Digging, grade changes, and heavy equipment compact soil and sever roots.

• Salt and wind: Coastal sites stress non-native species; choose salt-tolerant trees or adjust care.

• Pests & pathogens: Stressed trees are magnets for borers, scale, and fungal issues.

Free, science-based resource: The University of Florida IFAS Extension has practical homeowner guides on diagnosing tree problems and storm prep.

Start here: UF/IFAS – Planting and Care for Trees & Shrubs

What you can do today (without making it worse)

Do a light triage—safely

• Stay off ladders with chainsaws. Storm-stressed wood behaves unpredictably.

• Remove small hazards only: twigs and small fallen limbs you can lift easily.

• Document with photos if damage may involve insurance later.

Help the roots, not just the canopy

• Deep, slow watering during dry spells: aim for the drip line, not the trunk.

• Mulch correctly: 2–4 inches of organic mulch in a wide ring, no touching the bark.

• Stop fertilizing a stressed tree: “Feeding” can push leafy growth the roots can’t support.

Call in help for structural issues

• Dead or cracked limbs over structures

• Leaning trees with soil lifting

• Large conks/fungi on trunk or buttress roots

• Palms with a missing spear leaf or sudden crown collapse

That’s the moment to bring in a certified arborist for a Tree Health Assessment. (We can help with that: Certified Arborist Services – All Your Way Tree Service)

Can this tree be saved? A quick decision frame

Every tree and site is different, but these rules of thumb help set expectations:

• Canopy loss under ~25% + no major trunk damage → often recoverable with pruning and care.

• Major trunk split, large cavities, or conks → plan for removal; internal decay won’t rebuild.

• A lean that developed suddenly with soil lift → high-risk; evaluate immediately.

• Palms: if the bud (growing point) is dead, the palm is done, even if older fronds are still green.

When removal is the safest path, we’ll say so—clearly and without pressure. When a tree is save-able, we’ll map the steps and the timeline.

What a professional assessment includes (and why it’s worth it)

A thorough evaluation isn’t guesswork. Expect:

1. Canopy analysis for deadwood, weight distribution, and storm sail.

2. Trunk & union inspection for cracks, weak forks, or decay.

3. Root collar & soil check for compaction, girdling roots, and drainage issues.

4. Species-specific findings (palms vs. oaks need different care).

5. Plan of action: pruning, cabling/bracing, soil aeration, root collar excavation, or removal.

6. Plain-English report you can keep for your records (handy for insurance).

If pruning’s the next step, we’ll handle it safely and cleanly:

👉 Tree Trimming Services in Valrico

Smart fixes that actually help

• Structural pruning: Removes dead/diseased wood and improves branch architecture so wind can pass through the canopy.

• Cabling & bracing: Supports weak unions on valuable trees you want to keep.

• Soil decompaction / vertical mulching: Reintroduces air and organic matter to tired, compacted soils.

• Root collar excavation: Frees buried flares and corrects girdling roots.

• Lightning protection: Worth considering for legacy oaks near homes or valuable structures.

• Palm-specific care: Correct pruning (no “hurricane cuts”), disease monitoring, and, if indicated, nutrient management.

Prevention: a Florida-friendly care calendar

Every spring (pre-storm-season):

• Annual inspection and light structural prune.

• Confirm clearances: 6–10 ft off the roof and away from service drops.

• Refresh mulch rings and check drainage.

After major storms:

• Walk your property for hangers, new leans, and soil heave.

• Photograph and call if something feels off.

Year-round habits:

• Water deeply during droughts; avoid daily “sips.”

• Keep string trimmers away from trunks.

• Never pile mulch or soil against bark.

• Resist “topping”—it creates weak, dangerous regrowth.

FAQ: quick answers homeowners ask us

“My tree leans, but it’s always leaned. Is that okay?”

Maybe. A long-standing lean with strong buttress roots can be normal. A new lean is not—call us.

“Half my oak is bare. Will it fill in?”

If the wood is alive and the cause is addressed (pruning, pests, water), yes. If major sections are deadwood, we’ll prune and reassess.

“Are mushrooms in the lawn a problem?”

Not necessarily. Mushrooms on the trunk or at the root flare are a bigger concern—send us a photo.

“Can I prune my own palm?”

Keep it minimal. Never remove green, horizontal fronds or “hurricane cut” the crown. Over-pruned palms decline faster.

When you’re ready for eyes you can trust

We keep it simple:

1. Walk-through & honest diagnosis – No scare tactics, just facts.

2. Clear plan – What to do, why, and in what order.

3. Safe, tidy work – From careful pruning to full removals when necessary.

4. Follow-up – We check back in, because tree care is a process, not a one-and-done.

Serving Valrico, Seffner, Plant City, and surrounding communities, All Your Way Tree Service is local, certified, and here when you need us—whether it’s a nagging “Is this normal?” question or a true emergency.

• Schedule a Tree Health Assessment

• Book Tree Trimming

• 24/7 Emergency Help

Free resource to keep learning: 

UF/IFAS homeowner tree care library: https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/

Final thought

Trees should make you feel safer and prouder of your home—not worried every time a dark cloud rolls in. If something about your tree doesn’t sit right, trust that instinct. A quick assessment now can save the tree—and sometimes the roof—later.